How to Fish Wire Your Garden Lights

Installing low voltage landscape lighting is a great way to enhance the beauty and security of your yard. Fish wiring, also called pull wiring, is a technique that allows you to easily run new wires under your lawn without extensive digging. Here is a complete guide on how to fish wire your garden lights:

Choosing the Right Fish Wire

The first step is selecting the right fish wire for your project. There are a few key factors to consider:

Wire Material

• Steel fish wire is very strong but more difficult to work with. It may kink easily.
• Polyethylene or nylon wire is more flexible and easier to use for long pulls. It's a good all-around choice.
• Fiberglass wire is stiff but very abrasion resistant. It's best for tricky pathways with lots of turns.

Wire Diameter

• For most garden lighting projects, 1/8-inch diameter fish wire provides the ideal balance of strength and flexibility.
• For extremely long runs, 3/16-inch may be better to reduce friction.
• For tight spaces, 1/16-inch allows tighter bending.

Visibility

• Choose a bright color like yellow or orange for high visibility above ground.
• Or pick black/gray for less visibility if aesthetics are a concern.

Planning the Wire Runs

Careful planning ensures your fish wire reaches every light location:

• Map out all light, transformer, and wire locations above and below ground.
• Measure the distances for each wire run. Allow extra length.
• Identify all obstacles - patios, trees, sprinklers, utilities, etc.
• Determine access points where you can insert/retrieve the fish wire.

Preparing the Wire Pathway

Before pulling any wire, I need to prep the underground route:

Removing Obstacles

• Temporarily remove any obstructions along the pathway - fence boards, paver edges, sprinkler heads, valves, etc.

Opening Access Points

• Use a spade to dig narrow trenches 6-12 inches deep at all access points.
• Slope the trenches gradually towards the next access point.

Installing Conduit

• Run flexible PVC conduit under permanent obstacles like sidewalks or driveways.
• Larger 3/4" conduit allows easier fish wire pulling.

Straightening the Path

• Use hand tools to clear any rocks or roots that could snag the wire.
• Widen tight turns around corners or trees to under 12" diameter.

Pulling the Fish Wire

Once the pathway is prepped, I can finally pull the fish wire to each light location:

Tying to the Leader Wire

• First, I tie one end of the fish wire securely to the leader wire from the transformer using plenty of electrical tape.

Lubricating the Wire

• I coat the fish wire with wire pulling lubricant or dish soap solution to reduce friction in the ground.

Pulling to the First Access Point

• I carefully pull the fish wire through the first trench run and leave several extra feet at the exit access point.

Repeating the Process

• I dig a new trench towards the next light or access point.
• At the entry point, I tie on a new length of fish wire and repeat the pull.

Retrieving at Light Locations

• For each light fixture, I dig to expose the fish wire and cut it, leaving at least an extra foot for connections.

Connecting the Light Wiring

With the fish wire fully pulled, I can finally connect and install the garden lighting:

Cutting the Fish Wire

• At each light location, cut away the fish wire, leaving at least 12 extra inches.

Joining the Light Wires

• Use wire nuts to connect the light wires to the fish wire ends.

Testing the Circuits

• With all lights wired, restore power and test that each fixture now lights up.

Burying the Wires

• After testing, I bury the wires about 6 inches deep and replace any excavated materials.

Aiming the Lights

• I adjust and aim each light to optimize the illumination coverage.

And that covers the complete process for successfully fishing wire to install low voltage garden and landscape lighting! Let me know if you have any other questions.